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Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Nov 26th, 2016 6:19 pm
by vito
Well finally had some time this weekend.

This is a bearing splitter. It grabs the bearing from the backside, neat tool and cheap.

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Here is a mock up of the driver's side. Note the shim below the top bearing.
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Tools set up.
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Ready to check.

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Meter zeroed in.

I used the thickest shim first to measure the end play knowing it was too thick. And it was. Unfortunately the picture didn't turn out showing the end play.

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This is the 0.133 shim. I can live with this. Also note that this is done as a mock up. I can only assume that the measurement will change a bit once the outer bearing is pressed onto the spindle.
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Unfortunately the passenger side was at the end of the limit at 0.008. So now I need to sand the shim down, great way to loose your fingerprints :ack:

Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Nov 29th, 2016 7:36 pm
by rbryce1
If each graduation is .001", is the dial indicator reading .0035" instead of .113". I always have a tough time reading mics. Probably why I buy digital. :D

Nice job though. That really looks like it takes patience!

Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Nov 29th, 2016 8:35 pm
by vito
rbryce1 wrote:If each graduation is .001", is the dial indicator reading .0035" instead of .113". I always have a tough time reading mics. Probably why I buy digital. :D

Nice job though. That really looks like it takes patience!
Thanks Bob, The shim is a 0.133 :D and yup the 0.0035 is the end play.

Patience and a big arm. 100' pounds on a 24" torque wrench :ack:

I can only imagine that once the outer bearing is pressed on to the spindle that the end play will change a bit. I bet this is why folks look for 0.003 while using this set up tool.

Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Nov 30th, 2016 4:50 am
by vito
Now for the un-fun part. Greasing the bearing. Normally I wash the bearing twice, even new pre-greased ones. Wipe the bearing crap off first so you don't dilute your solvent or what ever your using.


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I use paint thinner as it is cheap and I can get it anywhere. After that I wash with acetone.

Wipe again and blast with air.

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This is all that crap that was on the bearings. The second wash is with acetone, blast with air and let dry for a while.

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I always pack the bearings twice. The first time gets the grease in, next spin the inner race as well are try to spin the rollers, then pack again.

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Here we go off to have them pressed.

I have found that pre-greased bearings also have the same chit inside.

Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Dec 1st, 2016 3:55 pm
by rbryce1
Looking good. Corvette rear wheel bearings have always been a problem, especially if you are running wide wheels with incorrect backspacing.

Lots of C3's in my previous Corvette Club (Corvette Charleston) back in the mid to late 70's had 10" wide rear wheels and needed spacers to have them clear the disk brake caliper. Their wheel bearings didn't live very long.

At least yours seemed to come apart fairly easily. Didn't see any pictures of torches!

Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Dec 11th, 2016 9:05 pm
by MaineVette
Nice job and write-up Vito. It takes patience but it's worth the peace of mind you'll have. :thumbs:

Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Dec 18th, 2016 12:06 pm
by rbryce1
Hey Vito,

Nice talking with you last week. What all were you able to take back to Okinawa with you? I didn't realize you could not use your military address for shipping after you retired. That sort of stinks.

Well, Hope Christmas goes well for you and everyone there.

Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Dec 18th, 2016 1:35 pm
by vito
Nice chatting with you too Bob. I was able to get a few things at HF. Spray guns they had were only 1.4 mm tip.

I will be back to the rock late Friday evening. Going to be a busy end of year.

Merry Christmas to you and family.

Cheers

Vito

Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Dec 31st, 2016 6:07 am
by vito
Well finally got a wrench on the car again, last day of the year no less. :)

I got the pass side spindle installed. Following are the procedures that I used.

https://www.duntovmotors.com/tech-rear-spindle.php


Using the Spindle Set Up Tool, place the outer bearing on it all the way onto the shoulder. Stack the spacer and the thickest shim you have onto the mandrel and place it into the housing from the outside. From the inside, place the inner bearing on the tool, and using the thick spindle washer and the nut and sleeve from the installation tool, torque to 100 Ft. Lbs.
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Measure the endplay with a dial indicator. If you used a .145 shim and the endplay is 17 thousandths, you know that if you replace that .145 shim with a .133 shim your endplay will be 5 thousandths. Remember, the minimum endplay according to GM is .001, the maximum .008. You are better off to be on the tight end of that spec, as in .001 - .004.
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Repeat the process with the correct spacer and confirm the correct endplay. Its time to pack the bearings. Use a high quality Moly-Graphite grease rated for Extreme Pressure, or better yet, do as we do and use Mobil 1. Pack the bearings by hand and pack the housing with a lot of grease. It doesn’t have to be absolutely full, because the spindle is going to take up some room in there, but it needs to be completely full when you are finished. You don’t ever want to do this job on this car again.
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Now the tricky part. Put the outer bearing onto its race and install the outer grease seal. Insert the spindle from the outside through the grease seal and the outer bearing, and then from the inside slide on the spacer, the correct shim, the inner bearing and install the inner grease seal.
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Slide the spindle flange onto the spindle flutes and screw the Spindle Installation Tool on to the end of the spindle. By tightening the nut on the end of the tool, you will draw the spindle into place and into the outer bearing. Torque to 125 FT LBS and make sure the spindle is properly seated. When properly seated, the gap between the spindle and the head of the ¾ inch bolt head that is at the top of the parking brake assembly should be about 300 thousandths, plus or minus. You will notice when more torque yields no more spindle movement. NOTE: when I did this I also did the following. torqued 3 times, 30 ft/pd hit with hammer on spindle face and threaded end, torqued to 70 ft/pd,, hit with hammer as before, then torqued to 125 ft/pd and again with hammer. I use the same technique when installing a crank and rods.
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Remove the Spindle Installation Tool and place the washer with the concave side down and thread the nut on the end of the spindle. Torque to 100 FT LBS.
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Check the endplay again by hand. It will probably be 1 thousandths less than you had with the set up tool if you did everything correctly, and that will be just fine!
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Put the cotter pin through the castle nut and bolt everything back together.

I watched a lot of video's and read a bunch of articles and no one had the entire process. The service manual isn't even that good. Pre-loading the bearings are the key. (#17 above)

Re: 1972 BB Convertible in Atomic Orange Color

Posted: Dec 31st, 2016 12:03 pm
by MaineVette
Makes me glad I paid to have mine done. :D

Nice to hear your got some wrenches on the car again. Happy New Year! :cheers: